The Little Burma in Kuala Lumpur (Malaysia)

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Very close to the Central Market (and Chinatown) in Kuala Lumpur there is a Myanmar enclave. The enclave has grown over the years to entertain and feed the vibrant Myanmar community in Kuala Lumpur. The place is about a 5 to 10 minutes walk from the street market in Chinatown. Just walk along Jalan Petaling until you reach Lebuh Pudu. By now, you will already start seeing the signs in Burmese script. I always hike up to this neighbourhood to get some Shan noodles and mohinga.

There are several smaller Burmese restaurants up the staircases, but usually these speak no English. However, there are two restaurants on this street at ground level where you can use some English. The New Gantawin has an English menu. My favorite here is Shan state noodles. Added attraction of this place is that the staff are clad in Burmese attire, complete with Thanaka paste on the face. The DVD player at the far end plays pop hits from Myanmar. Even with the English menu, chances are that you would be the only non-Myanmar person here. But do not be shy or afraid, the folks here are nice and will let you be.

I will mention the old Gantawin, just in case the New Gantawin is full. This restaurant is on the junction of Lebuh Pudu and Lorong Pudu. There is no English menu, but if you do find yourself here, just confidently look at the staff, and ask for Mohinga — the rice noodle soup. Ask for the Burmese tea (close to the Indian sweet milk tea) if you want to spend some more time watching people.

Though this neighbourhood is called Little Burma by some, it is more like a combination of Bangladesh, Nepal and Burma. Walking around here, you will find some Bangladeshi and Nepalese shops and eateries too. There is a Rambo mini-market — just in case you are planning to stock up on supplies to take down a small country. If you end up at the Nepalese restaurant, ask them for momo — Nepalese dumplings.

I must add that the people working in these eateries are a nice bunch and many of the younger guys enjoy talking to tourists, and are happy to give you extra serving of curry, if you compliment them on the food. Not many tourists know about this place so it is likely that you would be the only outsider here.

Some things to try

Explore the nearby building called Bangunan Cahaya Suria. This place has a Burmese Biryani Restaurant called Zayyar. Also check out the nearby KotaRaya Complex for dessert and food from the Philippines.

Want to try some Halo Halo? Go to Kota Raya complex on Jalan Tun Tan Cheng Lock. You will see this building crossing Burma Town from Chinatown. On the upper floors of this building, you will find shops and eateries from the Philippines. It is not as big as Singapore’s Lucky Plaza (no Jollybee too) but you can find Halo-Halo here. It cost RM 5. Note the mobile company ad behind my halo halo. This company sells subscriptions to view on demand content on mobile for many expat communities. The top floor of the building has some 1990s style gaming arcades and a food court that serves food from some South East Asian countries.